Chinese ancient people dressing problems，We don't know much about the past，Although the literature leaves a lot of records，But the illustration made by the text，Certificate Certificate，Targeting and attached meeting，and the specific actual gap is very large，Insufficient knowledge。There are also records of uniforms in "Liao Shi"，The focus is on the service and official uniform of the upper -level rulers and bureaucratic groups，Most of them are dresses in specific activities and occasions，Normal clothes in daily life and the wearable of the public know very little。Fortunately，Archaeologists after decades of hard work，Discover a large number of real objects such as the Liao Dynasty mural tombs and clothes from the ground，Research method of archeology，These new information helps us get more new understanding。

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Historical documents and archeological data display，There are at least two types of clothing systems in the territory of Liaoning -Khitan and Hanfu。Khitan clothing is the traditional national costume of the Khitan people，It is a more unique clothing content in the Liao period。The significant feature of men's clothing is hair hair、Round neck tube robe and slot boots，The typical identification of women's clothing is hair and intersection robes。The characteristic of the hair is to shave all or part of the hair on the top of the head，Leave a small amount of residual hair in the two or front foreheads。"Said the text · 髟 髟" contains: "髡，Shaver also "，Wuyi, which lived in the north in ancient China、Xianbei、Khitan and other nomadic peoples all have vulgar hair，Just the differences in the position and hair formula of all ethnic groups。The characteristic of the robe is round neck，Open after the robe，This kind of clothing is easy to gallop immediately，can also prevent wind and keep warm，Cuffs firming，Lumbar beam belt or a belt that is often used by nobles。"Laundling Boots" is a boot sutured with a whole piece of leather (Figure 1，2），Unearthed physical and Liao Tomb Bet365 app download mural images can correspond to，It is characterized by the sole to show the "V" arched，Sewing marks at the seams are obvious。The hair of the Khitan woman is rare in the image，Song Dynasty documents recorded "Both their women's women are all heads，Make away from the Fang Fang when she marries "，Wearing a combined robe，longer than male robes，The hem is wider，Benefits in the chest，It is quite similar to the shape of today's women's Mongolian robe。

Archaeological Discovery Digesty，The Khitan service in the Liao Dynasty for more than 200 years is not static，Men and women's clothing have evolved。Men's hair in the early style is slightly longer than the short hair of the man today (Figure 1，1），Expressing over time，The horns are gradually lengthened and trimmed into fine 绺 (Figure 1，2），and the Song people Shen Kuo "Cutting hair，Professional confirmation of each other。In the middle of the Liao Shengzong, the hair change into a new style，Many styles。The Khitan people first liked to wear a short robe (Figure 1，1），Level to the knee，Easy to ride horse riding，Later, it developed to the robe that reached the leg and belly (Figure 1，2），The situation of changing the world's unification of the world，and gradually replace the short robe，Become a late mainstream costume。Early popular skinny leg pants，Get in the trousers，Later, gradually widened into pants。Early Khitan people wearing shoes without boots，I only like to wear joint boots in the middle period，Wearing a hat。Liao Shengzong period，Men's clothing has experienced a big evolution of reborn，Anti -hairs and black hats alternately appear，robes、Lord sewing boots have begun to become the "popular model" of the Khitan service。

Women's hair was originally shaved from the hair，The rest of the existing effect to form a distribution，Then gradually stretch the scattered hair braids，Some tie the rest on the top of the head into a ponytail (Figure 1，3），Some still leave a stingy hair and fall into the shoulders，It is the most distinctive hair style of the Khitan woman。Late black hats appear in murals，Some are still hugging a circle of white hair bands on the head (Figure 1，4），Commonly known as the forehead，Black hat bet365 Play online games and black hat gradually replaced other hair styles。The Care of Khitan women (Figure 1，4) The basic style has not changed，Just the width and length are slightly increased，It looks thicker and heavy，Single shoes are blocked by the robe almost invisible。

　　The internal change of Hanfu

There are two concepts in Hanfu: the narrow Hanfu and the general Hanfu。The narrow Hanfu specifically refers to the Han Dynasty clothing，"Hanfu" as a clothing noun first appeared in the Han Dynasty literature。Hanfu in a broad sense is the collective referred to as the traditional clothing of the Han nation，Broadly refers to the traditional Chinese national costume as the main body，Huaxia clothing system gradually formed after continuously absorbing the characteristics of other national costumes。

Hanfu in the Liao Dynasty clothing refers to the Hanfu of Guangyi，Clothing system with traditional Han nationality clothing as the main body。The recognition characteristics of men's clothing are head wearing black buns (Figure 2，3），The head of the head is composed of the hat body and the feet on both sides，Foot feet with both feet、Foot、No foot、straight feet，It is the standard of men since the Sui and Tang dynasties，You can "official hat" from the Song Dynasty officials in Lenovo TV series。The man wears a robe on both sides (different from the gown of the Khitan robe) (Figure 2，3），Cuffs relaxation，Single belt of the lumbar beam or the so -called "view belt" of the upper and lower layers。Women's skirt，There are two styles of skirts: one is two types of upper and lower skirts (Figure 2，2），The upper body is a short shirt，The lower body is a long skirt，The skirts and wide -leg pants in the murals of Xuanhua Liao tomb are unique in this area; the other is the short shirt since the Tang Dynasty tied into a high -waisted long skirt (Figure 2，1），The rhyme of the Tang Dynasty with a fluttering Tang，It seems to be a very fashionable clothing today。

The public usually uses left、The way to open the right puppet to distinguish between Hanfu and minority costumes。The so -called 衽，Flows refer to clothing，Open Popular point，refers to the way to open the placket，Since ancient times，Four types of shape: bet365 live casino games Left 衽、Right、Paido and Hehe。Left and right two plackets stack，The right placket is above，is left，It is commonly used in the surrounding ethnic groups;，Left placket on top，Right，It is the traditional Hanfang shape of the Central Plains region;，Directly on the upper and lower plackets，is the opposite;，There are two sets of button systems on the left and right，is a combination。

So what are the specific situations of Hanfu and Khitan clothes coexisting during the Liao period? Actually，The tops unearthed in the early Liao Dynasty are mostly left，The owner of the tomb is almost all Khitan，This shows that Khitan's uniform retains the traditional clothing characteristics of the northern nation in the early days，Right is more rare。Look at the characters in the mural，Left is still the main opening method of the placket，The proportion of the left -handed left of the left is beginning to decline，A combination of right -right and left -right 衽 衽 衽。Golden Yuan Dynasty，The proportion of Zuo Yan continues to decline，Right 衽 衽 and the proportion of the opposite row gradually increase，Ming and Qing Dynasties，Right 衽 and pairing have become absolute mainstream。This development context reflects the recognition and integration of Han culture in ethnic minority culture。

During the Hanfu in Liao Dynasty, there was a severe internal change，Women's clothing is more obvious。The Tang Dynasty was the era of major changes in clothing，Hanfu is no longer limited to the narrow Han Dynasty clothing，Instead, a wider cultural connotation is derived from the background of national integration。Women's clothing gets rid of the influence of deep clothes in the Han Dynasty，Incorporate a large number of external factors，A shirt、Skirt、帔 (Plum on the shoulders) The new style of the three -piece suit，referred to as "Tang suit"。​​Liaoning women Hanfu inherit this new style，Short shirts into high waist long skirts (Figure 2，1），Become one of the main styles of women along the Great Wall of the North，Videline -sleeved Hanfu advocated by today's traditional culture enthusiasts is very different，Should be temporarily called "New Hanfu"。At the same time，Grass women's clothing bet365 live casino games invented by the Northern Song Dynasty (a pair of placket jackets evolved from half -arm or medium order，Two plackets to open without overlapping，Bai，Two axillary splits，Short clothes and waist，Elderly is over the knee)，Frequent in the northern Song Dynasty，spread to Liaojing。mural image display，These two women's clothing (referred to as "high -waisted skirt" and "tweezers") intersect in Datong area、collision、Fusion，Two clothing carries two cultural traditions，Gradually evolved into the women's style of women's clothing in the gold and Yuan dynasties。mural image data display，bag、Shirt、High -waist long skirt gradually becomes the mainstream of northern women's clothing，while the southern women's clothing at the same time, the corolla、Long sister -in -law is the main element。The records of Sanqu in the Yuan Dynasty simultaneously confirmed the coexistence of two women's clothing in the north and south，Four years of Hongwu (1371)，Red Gracence and Red Luo Long Skirts become the constant clothes of the Queen of the Ming Dynasty。This new angle cut in，It can help us understand the integration of Hanfu and the process of evolution as Xinhanfu。

　　Regional differences in the clothing of the Liaoning Regent Region

There are five capitals in Liao government，It is called Wujing。Liaoning governors have built Shangjing Linhuang Mansion (now Lindong Town, Chifeng City)、Liaoyang Mansion, Tokyo (now Liaoyang City, Liaoning Province)、Nanjing Anjin Mansion (now Beijing)、Zhongjing Dingfu (now Ningcheng County, Inner Mongolia)、Xijing Datong Mansion (now Datong City, Shanxi Province)。The original ethnic group and the local customs of Wujing are different，Shangjing north of the Great Wall is the hometown of Khitan，Tokyo is the hometown of Bohai people，Zhongjing is the hometown of the people，Nanjing and Xijing south of the Great Wall are the Henu Henu of the Sixteen State of Yanyun，Therefore, there is a diverse appearance in clothing。

north of the Great Wall，Khitan clothing is the mainstream costumes of the Shangjing and Tokyo regions，The proportion of Hanfu is very small，To a certain extent, the difference between the proportion of Han and the Khitan people，At the same time, there are also bet365 Play online games some Han people "Khitanhua" in their living habits。South of the Great Wall，Hanfu is the absolute mainstream clothing in Nanjing and Xijing area，Khitan can also see it occasionally south of the Great Wall。According to observation，The frequency of the Khitan service is related to the distance from the core area of ​​the Khitan service，In other words，The Xuanhua area closer to Shangjing Linhuang is significantly higher than the Datong area with a distance from far away。The geographical location of Zhongjing Dadingfu area is the most special，Located in the Touct connection zone located in the north and south of the Great Wall，A significant coexistence and fusion on the clothing，The proportion of the wearing and Khitan clothes of Hanfu and Khitan is roughly the same，and women wear more intersection robes，Affected by more cultural culture of the Khitan service。To sum up，Regardless of the Great Wall North and South，Khitan clothing and Hanfu are the main costumes of the five cities，In addition, there should be Bohai clothes and 奚 奚 (no different from Khitan)，"Drive Record" record，Northern Song Lu Zhen's envoy in 1008 described the situation of Youzhou City's clothing status: "residents peripheral，Lane straight，Those who are hundreds of people，Summary of Hanfu，There are Hu clothes，Gai Di Khitan、Bohai Women's Ear。”

All these are not difficult to see，Liao Dynasty is an era in the history of Chinese clothing that cannot be ignored。It inherits Datang，Many Tang Dynasty mural character clothing and silk fabric research puzzles，Can be answered or enlightened in the murals and unearthed objects in Liao Tomb;，Many costumes of clothing during the Jin Yuanming period can be found here。Liao Dynasty clothing has become an important part of the development sequence of ancient Chinese clothing.，Liaoning governors have achieved effective governance political ideals in the grassland area north of the Great Wall and south of the Great Wall，The treasure of its governance of the country is the national policy of governing the country，that is, "Govern the Genzan by the national system，Rule of Rule of Rule of Hands with Han "。On clothing，The subtleties of the cure due to the custom bet365 live casino games are manifested in: on the one hand inheritance and innovation in Chinese customs，Respect the cost of clothing culture of the Khitan nation，On the other hand, Khitanhua, which is not forced to implement the farming area south of the Great Wall，Instead of respecting the free communication between culture，Respect the deep late Tang Dynasty in the area、Five Dynasties Hanfu Culture Tradition。So，Liao Dynasty clothing has become a collection of all regional clothing，formed the upper opening、Compatible and stored、Gorgeous style。

Liao Dynasty clothing，Existing its own characteristics，Many characteristics on Chinese national costumes，The concept of the integration of the Chinese nation is presented on clothing，This is the true portrayal of the diverse pattern of Chinese civilization。

　　(The author is the person in charge of the Yuan Dynasty Clothing Research under the View of the National Social Science Foundation of the National Social Science Fund "、Associate Professor of Inner Mongolia Normal University)