The term "Hanfu",It is a sociological concept proposed by traditional culture enthusiasts since the 21st century,The social upsurge triggered by this reflects the current society’s strong demand for the revitalization of traditional Chinese culture。As a broad sociological category,Hanfu is the collective name for the traditional costumes bet365 withdrawal Han nationality,Generally refers to the traditional costumes bet365 withdrawal Han nationality as the main body,The Chinese costume system gradually formed after continuously absorbing the costume characteristics of other ethnic groups in the evolution of society。
Hanfu in a narrow sense refers specifically to bet365 withdrawal clothing
Hanfu in a narrow sense refers specifically to Han Dynasty clothing。“Hanfu” as a term for clothing is not only clearly found in literature, but also appears for the first time in Han Dynasty literature。Bamboo slip No. 44 unearthed from Tomb No. 3 in Mawangdui, Changsha records: "Four beauties,The two of them are in Chufu,Hanfu for two people。”According to the chronological wooden tablet from the west box bet365 withdrawal tomb,The burial date bet365 withdrawal tomb is February bet365 withdrawal 12th year of Emperor Wen of Han Dynasty,The second month of Zhuanxu’s calendar in 168 BC。The brief text shows that in the early Western Han Dynasty, there were at least two clothing systems in Changsha, the hometown of Jingchu - Hanfu and Chufu。The Hanfu here refers to the clothing system represented by the Guanzhong and Gyeonggi regions,Reflects the clothing standardization regulations from the central government bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty,Clothing type、Style、Distribution area、The development origins are different from the clothing tradition in Jingchu area。
Archaeological findings indicate,In the Hanfu system bet365 withdrawal early Western Han Dynasty, there were tops of varying lengths,But mainly long clothes with diagonal straight collars。According to the thickness bet365 withdrawal top, it is also known as "褌衣", "袁衣" and "fuyi"。Take handing over long clothes as an example,The basic characteristic is that the overall shape bet365 withdrawal clothing is slender and long;The neckline cross position moves downward,The protruding neckline bet365 withdrawal underwear is revealed;Lower waistline,Near buttocks;小quju;Hem long in front and short in back,Within the reach bet365 withdrawal former minister,Shorter at the rear、Arc-shaped concave;Narrow and thin edge。can be seen,This style feature is in line with the Chinese clothing system bet365 withdrawal Eastern Zhou Dynasty。The author’s research findings on Eastern Zhou costumes,Eastern Zhou Dynasty costumes show diversified regional characteristics,These characteristics were all involved in the construction of Hanfu in the early Western Han Dynasty,The basic characteristics of Hanfu mentioned above can be traced back to the diversified clothing system bet365 withdrawal Eastern Zhou Dynasty。For example, the unique neck-hugging expression bet365 withdrawal collar in Hanfu is common in the Qin culture in the Guanzhong area;The concave style feature at the back bet365 withdrawal hem comes from the Qi culture in the Haidai area during the Warring States Period;The characteristics of Xiaoqu's quilt are obviously influenced by Jingchu culture during the Warring States Period。In addition,In red、黄、青、Monochromatic clothing with four main colors of white is the color decoration feature bet365 withdrawal Hanfu system,Different from many costume cultures during the Warring States Period。Therefore,Previous research generally believed that clothing in the early Han Dynasty originated from Chu culture during the Warring States Period,is not comprehensive。Actually,In the early years bet365 withdrawal Western Han Dynasty, not only did the Hanfu system have a wide range of origins, but it also formed a standardized clothing style with its own characteristics,There is a significant difference from the Chufu at that time,The Chufu system itself has also undergone subtle changes,It is increasingly separated from the Chu style bet365 withdrawal Warring States Period。
An important cultural symbol of bet365 withdrawal family etiquette
Mid-Western Han Dynasty,Hanfu continues to absorb the style features of Chu clothing,Continuous improvement of oneself,The formation of a new Hanfu style。The overall shape bet365 withdrawal cross-collar long dress, which is also a representative, is gradually becoming looser and more suitable for the body,Specifically manifested in: the intersection point bet365 withdrawal neckline gradually moves upward,The raised neck gradually becomes flat;The cuffs evolved from wide or narrow sleeves to wide sleeves with hanging beard;The waistline continues to rise;Lengthened skirt of small song,Form a slender train;The hem gradually turns outward,The common concave arc at the rear gradually becomes flat,Flat front and back。At the same time,Chufu also continues to improve itself at the same pace,Showing many bet365 withdrawal above style features。From now on,The style difference between Hanfu and Chufu is gradually narrowing,Absorb and merge with each other。
The mid-Western Han Dynasty was not only the period of formation bet365 withdrawal unified clothing style bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty,It is also the beginning period of another brand-new clothing culture pattern。Under this pattern,Except for the costumes bet365 withdrawal Western Region countries and Southwest Yunnan culture, they still retain their local characteristics,The clothing appearance of most areas governed by the Han Dynasty tends to be unified,Formation bet365 withdrawal Hanfu system with the basic feature of cross-collaring and right lapels。Dress in the Hanfu system、Regular service、Military uniform、Working Clothing、Performance costumes have their own unique style features,Feature-rich yet clear。Nevertheless,All costumes are cross-collared and right-folded,The cross collar and right lapels are still the core style features of various types of clothing。In the four hundred years of development bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty,Although the types and styles of Hanfu have changed frequently,There are even round-neck back-closed suits that can be worn at the back,But it has not shaken the core position of Jiao Ling You Ren Fu,The overall form of Hanfu has always developed steadily。
Historical records indicate that the King of Kucha and his wife entered the Han Dynasty to congratulate their queen in the first year of Yuankang bet365 withdrawal Western Han Dynasty (65 BC),Come and congratulate several times,Lehan Clothing System”。It can be seen that Hanfu in the Zhaoxuan period bet365 withdrawal Western Han Dynasty is no longer a simple clothing type or a collective name for certain clothing types with common style characteristics,It is an important part of Han family etiquette,Become an important symbol of Han culture。
The spread of Hanfu is almost synchronized with the expansion bet365 withdrawal political power bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty
Archaeological discoveries in the early and middle Western Han Dynasty indicate,The clothing culture of southwest Yunnan has its own system,Generally popular double-breasted coats、Pairing round-neck bra with shorts or skirt。Late Western Han Dynasty,The indigenous clothing tradition in this area shows signs of gradual decline,Replaced by the increasingly popular Han culture,This must be directly related to the political ownership of Yunnan。According to "Historical Records: Biographies of Southwest Yi": the second year of Yuanfeng, Emperor Wu bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty (109 BC),The King of Dian is “the first to do good”,"Leaving the Southwestern Yi,The whole country surrenders,Please appoint officials to the court。So I thought Yizhou County,Granting the King's Seal to the King of Dian,Restore and grow its people”。
The influence of Hanfu on the clothing culture bet365 withdrawal Western Regions came later。Based on the physical materials of Bronze Age and Early Iron Age clothing unearthed in Xinjiang,Three-piece and button-down tops have always been the mainstream clothing here。Late Eastern Han Dynasty,With the establishment bet365 withdrawal Western Regions Protectorate bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty and the resulting in-depth influence of Han culture in the Western Regions,Cross-collar tops are gradually increasing here。Archaeological findings indicate,Loulan Ancient City、Yingpan Cemetery、The cross-collar tops unearthed from Niya ruins and other places are not only numerous、Many styles,And it is made bet365 withdrawal most luxurious silk fabric and worn as the outermost layer,The traditional one-piece top is simply decorated and worn as underwear。At the same time,The styles of traditional one-piece and button-down tops have also undergone significant changes。The neckline of a straight-top top has generally evolved from the original low round collar to a raised stand-up collar,Even a “V” collar;The two lapels bet365 withdrawal double-breasted top have changed from completely symmetrical to slightly overlapping.,Shows transitional characteristics towards cross-collar tops。This explains the style of Hanfu、Material、Clothing elements such as tailoring methods are constantly being absorbed by the local area,Promoted the formation of a new clothing culture in the Western Regions,And eventually contributed to the convergence of local costumes and generalized Han costumes from the Wei and Jin Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties。
The rapid spread of Hanfu after the middle bet365 withdrawal Western Han Dynasty was almost synchronized with the historical background bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty’s continuous expansion of political power and the continuous strengthening of centralization of power。"Hanshu Geography" records: "Up to Emperor Wu,Hu Que Hu、Vietnam,Open the ground to attack the environment,Southern Jiaozhi,Situate Shuofang Prefecture in the north,Jianxu、Liang、You,Bing Xia、Zhizhi,Change Yong Yue Liang,Changing Liang Yueyi,The Thirteen Parts,Institute the governor。”The development and management of remote areas by the central government during Emperor Wu bet365 withdrawal Han Dynasty objectively promoted the spread of Hanfu。
All these are not difficult to see,The formation and development process of Hanfu has always been to integrate various clothing elements through constant exchanges to achieve its own consolidation、Improvement and development,This process is always accompanied by the spread of Han culture。In terms of cultural communication methods,Direct immigration of existing Han people,There are also local indigenous cultures that directly accept Han culture,The popularity of Hanfu in the local area is a profound interpretation bet365 withdrawal latter。Compared to the direct acceptance of finished silk products as clothing fabrics,Local indigenous people’s improved styles of local traditional clothing、The full acceptance bet365 withdrawal new style of Hanfu actually reflects the high recognition and active integration of Chinese culture from the spiritual level。At this time, the concept of Hanfu is no longer a material and cultural existence with a unified morphological basis,It is a cultural symbol and spiritual carrier that contains deeper connotations。
(The author is the person in charge bet365 withdrawal project "The Formation of Han Clothing - Archaeological Research on Costumes bet365 withdrawal Eastern Zhou, Qin and Han Dynasties" funded by the National Social Science Foundation、Associate Research Librarian bet365 withdrawal National Museum of China)
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